East, tubular, Asian, dlinnozvennye Lily loved by gardeners for its ruggedness and large inflorescences. Some advice on planting in the ground will allow the beds to wallow in a fragrant and lush cloud-red-white-orange.
The best time for this event – first half of autumn. After flowering comes a resting, it lasts a few weeks, then the growth follicles aktiviziruyutsya, appear roots. Due to this in the early spring flowering Bud appears. Due to various circumstances, planting is sometimes postponed to early spring.
The April planting in the open ground has its advantages:
- planting material for the winter don't need to dig into the ground and insulate, it can be stored in a conventional refrigerator;
- wintering at home eliminates spoilage and freezing, ensures the safety of;
- proper preparation of the soil will allow the plants to develop successfully.
Disadvantages relate to the spring planting of some varieties of lilies, who have not had time to develop root system, plants live only at the expense of the bulbs. From spring lilies no kids, which are very often used by gardeners for reproduction. If the summer was short and cold, from the April planting too best to refuse, lilies will bloom only next year. Caring for flower beds fall and spring planting different, for this reason, it is better to place in different places. The end of may, the beginning of summer – not the best time for planting, the plants will be weak, so, susceptible to disease.
Spring planting lilies: techniques and tips
High, full plants can be grown from bulbs, who do not have signs of rot, spots of mold, scales, different texture and color. The roots should be alive, not dried, length – about five inches. If the bulbs purchased in the spring, it is best to choose planting material from already hatched sprouts. In the process of purchasing don't forget to learn the specifics of the class: it affects not only the time and place of landing, but the methods of cultivation.
If planting material is stored in the refrigerator, it must be checked regularly, if some of the follicles woke up and began to grow, they need to be planted in pots or special containers. In the absence of frost sprouted specimens planted in open ground.
To protect bulbs against fungi and pathogenic bacteria it is necessary to conduct a number of preventive measures, this will allow to avoid troubles, which can destroy the plant. Disinfection is performed in the following way:
- the bulbs, rinse in clean water, and then half an hour placed in a solution of manganese, in a bucket of water – 5-10 g of substance;
- to hold plant material in a solution of fungicide;
- remove any damaged scales, the bulbs, rinse in several waters, and then placed in a solution of Malathion: tablespoon of the substance in a bucket of water.
Protection will increase, if after landing the nest to insulate. The easiest way is a plastic bottle with removed upper half, inverted capacity will play the role of mini-greenhouses for shoots. When transporting planting material it is placed in boxes or other containers with damp moss, sand, sawdust or loose soil.
Asiatic hybrids multiply stem "bulbectomy", formed in the leaf axils. To keep peas in the winter, they must be placed in tightly sealed plastic bags or put in pots with peat, which are installed in the refrigerator or at room temperature one to three degrees.
Preparation of soil
The soil should be alkaline, loose, healthy, hydrated. One of the options: a mixture of peat, sod land, river sand, fallen pine needles.
In the period, when the ground thawed, conduct preparatory activities:
- the digging of the top soil on 40 cm deep;
- the drainage device to drain excess moisture, you can use river pebbles or gravel;
- as necessary Supplement of fresh soil, if you have previously grown other plants;
- Supplement to the soil humus or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, chalk or wood ash to reduce acidity, pine needles mixed with sand;
- watering, the soil should be moist.
Biological fertilizer, manure, do not apply. On top of the prepared soil is spread a layer of compost, peat or rotted sawdust.
Dig holes in a Sunny spot, depth – 10 cm or a little deeper, it depends on the type of lilies. If the roots are developed enough, the onion can be sunk. The intervals also depend on the type of: among low-growing plants leave at 15 – 20 cm, between the high – 30 cm. The drop-off location should not be flooded by the spring waters.
Cow dung negatively affects the growth of follicles, fertilizing should be done with the help of mineral fertilizers. Supplements depend on the type of soil, spring make:
- NPK (50 g in a bucket);
- ammonium nitrate (tablespoon per square metre);
- wood ash.
Excess minerals can also adversely affect the growth and development of germs, you must adhere to a strict dosing. Lily love ash, it can add five to six times throughout the season, it protects against pests and mold, and forms a comfortable for these plants alkaline environment.
Spring planting should be fertilized two more times, before the formation of the buds moisture content of the soil solution nitrophoska, after flowering – superphosphate, this dressing will prepare bulbs for winter.
Disease prevention in may the soil is impregnated with liquid Bordeaux, in July the procedure was repeated twice, in the summer sprayed all the plants. If Lily still appeared gray mold – feeding to continue, the bulbs must obtain additional nutrients.
On the first day after planting the bulbs, prepared and fertilized the soil should be watered, then do it regularly, watching, the soil was not dry or waterlogged. To preserve moisture in the soil mix can be mix with decomposed sawdust or pine needles. Lilies do not need to plant too thickly. For irrigation is best suited day or the morning hours. The procedure is carried out carefully, so, to the drops falling on the leaves. Water "lens" may cause burns. A good can be considered to be receiving drip irrigation, which allows you to do the moisture directly to the root system. Waterlogging may contribute to the development of brown spots, Fusarium, wet rot.
Protecting lilies from pests and diseases
In the spring, the gardener may encounter wet rot. Disease manifests itself in the form of yellow spots, which first appear on the leaves, and then, on peduncles. Becoming infected plant. To protect the flowers from the scourge, watering should be reduced, to eliminate the dressing of nitrogenous fertilizers.
Red spots may indicate rust. This disease is carried with the bulbs, should be carefully selected and disinfect planting material. Infected leaves of adult plants removed, for treatment use Bordeaux liquid, fungicides.
With the defeat of gray mold whole plant is covered with brown spots, the causes of the disease can be a sharp change of temperature and waterlogging. To prevent the growth of mold often loosen the soil and planting treated with copper-containing drugs.
If the tops turn yellow sprout is a root rot. The plant will have to remove, to disinfect the soil.
Harm Lily planting not only of the disease, but pests, such as aphids, beetle Piskun, click beetles, chafer, trips, spider mites. Beetle-Piskun and the Lily beetle can be deleted manually, other insects will help to manage insecticide.
To prevent damage to the bulbous mice experienced gardeners put a mesh fence, as well as planted plants, able to deter rodents, like daffodils, the Crocus, snowdrops.
Helpful tips on growing lilies
Error fraught with the death of plants, the spring planting they should be avoided in the first place.
- Do not plant lilies in the valley. This area can get flooded, plants just die.
- It is better to water infrequently, but abundant. Waterlogging and drought can also be disastrous for this culture.
- Do not fertilize lilies manure, instead of mullein is better to use humus or compost.
- It is better to plant the plants in partial shade, soil mulching with sawdust or dry grass.
Simple rules, their observance will allow the second year to lush, beautiful beds.